Saturday, December 24, 2011

The Next More Miniature Conversions

I'm having a thought that I should turn "More Miniature Conversions" into a thing, and keep the trend going, sticking something different before it from now on. When my wife and I were first courting, we kept a "Wednesday" thing going on in our email subjects for quite awhile, so I have some faith in my ability (likely with her help) to keep it going for awhile. heh.

Anyway, in my last post I said that I'd post up the other miniature conversions I was working on, so here they are:

First up... The Pixies.

These are "Wasp" minis from Heroclix, repainted and rebased. The paint job isn't the greatest on these, for sure. They definitely need some touching up. The funny thing about these is that they are normal medium-sized minis, compared to D&D minis... so those are some pretty big pixies. heh. I used them in my last episode of D&D Encounters, and just told the players "This is what you'd see if you had a magnifying glass." :)

The funnier thing about it, is that I could have bought the same minis from a different set of Heroclix, and they would have been smaller. I actually am not sure how I missed that. I ordered a few of those this week, so I'll do the conversion on them too.

Next up... more Boggles.

These are pretty rough too, honestly, but good enough for now. They're rebased and repainted Mage Knight Squalid Gremlins. I hope to get a chance to clean them up a bit before they're needed.

Next... Xivorts.
In the Monster Manual 3 and the text of the Beyond the Crystal Cave module, Xivorts are blue-skinned goblins. So, I grabbed the Goblin Cutter minis from my copy of The Legend of Drizzt boardgame, primered and painted them up. Here's a sample:

Last, but not least...
In the regular Every-2nd-Saturday game I play in, we are the crew of an Astral Privateer Ship, and a member of our crew is Whizbang Whirclank, a modron. They don't make modron minis, so I thought I'd make one myself.

I made Whizbang by cutting up a Kythren mini from Mage Knight Sorcery, and combining it with the wings from another mini (who's name I cannot currently remember). A quick brush of Tin Bits paint, and some yellow for his eye, and he was done. This is probably my favorite mini conversion so far, and it was done mostly by the seat of my pants.

Saturday, December 10, 2011

More Miniature Conversions

It's been awhile since I posted anything new.

I've been running the last three seasons of D&D Encounters, which has been a lot of fun. One of the challenges of the games has been coming up with miniatures for all the opponents the PCs encounter.

In the season before last, Dark Legacy of Evard, there were a few monsters that didn't have miniatures available, such as the medium-sized spider swarms, and there were others that required rare miniatures from older sets, which would have been a little expensive. So, I ended up making a few, and I turned to other existing sources for the others: The Castle Ravenloft boardgame, Mage Knight, Heroscape, and Horrorclix.

The ones I made:
The Spider Swarms

For these, I used some mold-making putty, pressed a Rot Scarab Swarm miniature into the surface until the bottom of the miniature was flush with the putty, and waited for it to set. I then pressed black clay into the mold, and baked the results. A quick brush of grey paint across it, and they were done, at least for the quick job I was doing (I was on my way out to the session at the time).

The Castle Ravenloft figures:
Deathjump Spiders, Frenzied Werewolf and Fell Court Ruffians.

I bought these from Auggie's Games*, who has taken apart several copies of the D&D boardgames, and is selling the pieces individually. I took a little longer to paint these, to make them look like the official miniatures.

The Horrorclix and Mage Knight figures:
Zombies and a Ghoul

These are Pod zombies from the Horrorclix game and a Marsh Zombie from Mage Knight. The Pod Zombies are simply rebased, but the Marsh Zombie has been rebased and repainted.

For the season after that, Lost Crown of Neverwinter, I was able to fill most of my miniature needs from the official mini sets, but there were a few that I used from the Castle Ravenloft and Wrath of Ashardalon boardgames, and from the Monsterpocalypse game.

The Castle Ravenloft figures:
Blazing Skeletons

These were already transparent blue, so all I did was paint the skeleton itself and the base with Chaos Black paint, and add some Red Ink to the fireball in its hands.

The Wrath of Ashardalon figure:

Seldra, the False Heir

This figure I'm fairly proud of, but my success with it is mostly just a fluke. It's a Keyleth figure from Wrath of Ashardalon, which comes in medium blue plastic. I originally just bought it because I liked the miniature, but my initial paint job wasn't very good. I soaked it in water for a day, then scrubbed the paint and primer off, and started over again. This was my first attempt at using inks on a figure. Diluted blue ink worked out very well for accenting the plates of her armor, but what worked out the best was her hair. I'd painted it a light yellow color, and was accenting it with a drybrush of orange, and it started to look really bad. As an experiment, I picked up some Chestnut Ink and just brushed it on undiluted. The result looked really good. So, I don't take any credit for how it turned out, but I'm really happy with how it turned out. heh.

The Monsterpocalypse figures:
Kraken Tentacles

These are from the Monsterpocalypse figure Ultra Ancient Asheroth. I found four of them on eBay, and I found the other four by lucking out on a discounted Monsterpocalypse "All Your Base" booster pack. I didn't do anything with them except to rebase them, but they worked out really well.

I needed one more set of tentacles, though, since I was supplying miniatures for both Encounters tables at the store I play at. So, I dug into my supplies and found I had one of these:
Which I then turned into this:

I didn't use the body for anything, but the tentacles saw duty at the other table.

This newest season of Encounters features a lot of fey creatures, and there aren't any D&D miniatures for them. Pixies, Xivorts, Boggles, Nymphs, and a medium-sized, horned, winged devil. I decided to use Will-o'-Wisps for Pixies (for now), and goblin minis stood in for Xivorts well enough, but there wasn't anything I could find that really fit with what Boggles look like. Not until I located the Gremlin figure from Horrorclix.

That's him on the left, and my repainted, rebased figures on the right:


That's all I have done at the moment, but I'll have others done soon, and I'll post them up as well.

*I highly recommend Auggie's Games for your miniature needs. He has great prices and exceptional customer service. He's also on eBay.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Stuff in Mind

I've taken a break from model building after that last one, mainly to prepare for Dragon*Con, which is coming up this weekend.

I have several ideas in mind for my tile projects, though.

I'll be putting together some standardized sets of tile walls. A Dungeon set and a City set are the two primary ones, with a Wilderness set (with trees and rocks and bushes and the like) in the works as well. I think I have the right idea for the dungeon and city walls, and it's just a matter of setting out the correct set of pieces in each set to give the best, most flexible coverage. I'm also getting some ideas together for extra pieces... tables, chairs, beds, a bar, a cart with horse or ox, and a fountain... to add in to the appropriate sets. A bridge is also in the works.

I have a request from my FLGS representative to make him some Warhammer 40k terrain for the store, based on my chipboard tile designs. That should be interesting, and I'm looking forward to starting in on that.

I've been taking advantage of the sales on Star Wars miniature packs at Target over the past few months, and now that I've built up my personal collection, and I'm selling off the excess, an idea that has been floating around in my head for awhile is starting to gel.

I don't exactly remember when this idea developed. It's possible it was a culmination of collecting a bunch of Star Wars minis for my Gamma World game, thus having a lot of Duros Scouts (from the Imperial Entanglements set) to stand in for the aliens in Famine in Far-Go, and thinking that if I ever finally run the "Just after Order-66" Star Wars campaign I've had in mind for a few years, I should have the campaign centered around a Duros space station, to take best advantage of all these minis.

The idea is to create a modular tile space station, scaled for miniatures (25 mm = 2 meters). The station would be roughly circular, with a central hub Command Center, and an outer ring. Each part would have three levels. The lower level would be the maintenance level, with narrow access hallways to cramped maintenance and repair chambers and lots of filled space (machinery). The middle level would be the most open, but with various services... bars, customs offices, retailers, etc... and the upper level would be open to the middle level, with numerous personal quarters along the sides, and bridges spanning the central area, linking both sides. I guess it's starting to sound a bit like Deep Space Nine, now that I type it all out. I'll have to change that. heh.

The scale of this would be huge, admittedly; probably around 6 feet wide at the minimum, which is why this simply remains an idea, rather than a reality. If I was going to invest time in making this, I would need to guarantee myself that I'd actually end up using it, and that's just not a guarantee I can make myself right now. I'll start with designing some maps for the game, based on some of the examples and tutorials available on the web, and we'll see where things go from there. Designing it as a more generic set of "space station tiles" might be a better way to go, but I have this fairly good picture in my mind showing all the 3D aspects of it, and it's pretty cool. ;)

Oh, and I am also working on compiling all of my models on here into pdf files, so that people can download them and build them for their own games. Each pdf will include all the images you will need, along with a full list of materials and instructions, and I might throw in some optional ideas too. Selling anything I've designed here would just cause a lot of unwanted complications, so it will all be available to download for free.

So, stayed tuned, I guess, and I'll get those up on the site as soon as I can. Dragon*Con first, though. So, I'll get back to work on that next week. :)

Monday, August 15, 2011

Baba Yaga's Dancing Hut

Recently, I took a request from a friend for a specific D&D tile model.

The project? Baba Yaga's Dancing Hut.

Now, I've known what Baba Yaga's Hut looks like for quite awhile. I'd seen the original D&D adventure years ago (in Dragon #83, above), and I've read the old folk tales about it. So, I knew what to expect when I took this on, but building this model definitely presented some challenges I hadn't dealt with yet.

The stats of the Hut called for the model to be (in a scale of 1 inch = 5 feet) a 15-foot-wide hexagon, and 15 feet tall. The first challenge to present itself was the stability of the wall tiles, which is highly dependent on the angle the wall tiles are joined at. Anything greater than 90 degrees sees a decrease in stability that bottoms-out around 135 degrees, and with the interior angles of a hexagon being 120 degrees, that meant that the walls were going to be pretty unstable if I stuck with my standard tab/slot design. There would be the benefit of this being a closed model, so all the walls would just link together, but I'd still have to take steps to make sure the thing didn't just fall apart in play.

Before working on this model, I did some tests using my standard wall tiles, matching them up to a hexagon on one of the D&D Encounters maps I was using during Season 5. This was before realizing that the Encounters map hexagon was 4 squares across, and the Hut is 3 squares across, but it did demonstrate the stability, or specifically the lack thereof.

The 4 square-across hexagon had walls that were 2" long, as seen above, but for the 3 square-across hexagon, I had to adjust that. Finding the proper size for the walls took some trial and error, but the simplest way to deal with it was just to drop a 3 inch wide hexagon into the Photoshop image of the roof, scale that hexagon properly so that the roof would overhang the edge by a bit, and then just take a measurement of each side from there. It gave me a length of just over 1.7 inches.

The Hut looks like a log cabin on the outside, so after downloading a clip art image of a log cabin wall, I created 6 different images from that, and cut multiple tabs and slots out of both sides, following the pattern of the logs.

The multiple tabs and slots definitely helped with stability, but ultimately, I needed to make the slots deeper and thus the tabs longer, in order to increase that stability, and also give the stereotypical "log cabin" corners.

I also made sure to add a tab at the top and bottom of each tile, which is something I haven't been doing so far with my wall tiles, since I would specifically be putting a roof and a floor on this model.

The next thing I tackled was the roof. Starting with the hexagonal roof I posted previously, I cut each facet out of that image, and made each of them slightly longer, using a bit of Pythagoras, and then put the image back together again. The result left a gap between the first and sixth facets, as it should, but when I printed it out and folded it along each facet edge, it turned out the roof was too steep. So, I went back to the original facets, and made them wider as well as longer. This made the gap smaller, and when I printed that out and folded it, it ultimately made the roof more shallow. It wasn't perfect, since I had the idea to make it so that figures could still stand on the roof, but I realized fairly quickly that to have figures be able to stand on the roof, it would have to be so shallow that I may as well just leave it flat. Besides, it looked really cool!

Next, to add stability to the roof, so that it wouldn't just collapse if you did put a figure on it or push on it the wrong way or push on a wall, I cut out individual pieces of chipboard and stuck them to the underside of the roof piece, so that when the roof was folded and joined together properly, the edges of the chipboard pieces would meet, and any weight or pressure put on the roof would be shared by all parts of the roof. It worked, for the most part, but I ended up making the individual chipboard pieces slightly too small, so that the gap at each fold was a bit too big. Still, it worked.

The next part of the roof was the chimney. This was fairly easy, overall, but it took some adjustments to get it just right. The main issues involved where the small size of the tiles, which made them more difficult to work with, and the fact that the part of the hut that they were slotting into was on an angle, whereas I wanted the top of the chimney to be parallel to the ground. In practice, it simply came down to cutting the pieces to what I thought would be right, then cutting them again, and again, and again, and again, until I had it how it needed to be to be right. Cutting a slot near the edge of one facet of the roof and a tab into the bottom of the chimney piece closest to the edge gave it a stability point for gluing it to the rest of the model, and using a black sharpie on the inside surfaces of the chimney, and the surface of the roof underneath where it was glued down was the finishing touch.

The floor of the model was easy. I edited the image of the log cabin wall into a three-inch-wide hexagon shape and printed that out, then cut out the same shape out of chipboard and stuck them together. I then cut slots into the middle of each facet of the hexagon so that I could slot the tabs of the walls into them, and that was that.

The real challenge, even more so than the roof, was the legs. If I haven't mentioned it already, the "Dancing" part of Baba Yaga's Dancing Hut comes about because the hut itself stands on two giant chicken legs!

My thoughts about how to do this part of the model had been percolating in my brain since I took on the project, but I started off simple, by grabbing a random image of a plastic chicken figurine off the internet. I found something appropriate, then set to work cropping and resizing it so that I had just the legs, and they would be the right size for the model. Then I set to work on the actual structure of the legs.

When I first started thinking about the model, the legs were the first thing I focused on. My immediate conclusion was that, given that these are thin chicken legs, just using flat pieces of tile was not going to work. It wasn't going to give enough stability for the model to stand up. However, if I cut slots into the leg pieces, lengthwise, and slotted two pieces together, the + shaped cross section would definitely do the job.

With that in mind, I decided to make each leg out of four pieces of chipboard. Two would be slotted together, perpendicular to each other, to form the thighs, and two would be slotted together, similarly, to form the lower legs. I made 4 images from the picture of the chicken figurine, two for each thigh and two for each lower leg, and then reversed them and printed them out.

Once I had the individual pieces assembled, I cut the slots into them, and slotted them together. I used the thigh pieces to plot out the slots that were needed in the floor of the model, and once that was done, I set to work on the biggest challenge of the model.

Since I made the thighs and lower legs separate from each other, I had to find a way to slot them together that would remain stable. I was having difficulty with this, and I started to rethink the design, to possibly make each leg out of three pieces - one long piece that would be both the thigh and lower leg, then two other pieces that would slot into that larger piece, perpendicular - but I was seeing the possibility that it wouldn't be very stable at the "knee". However, as I was exploring that possibility, I rotated the lower leg by 45 degrees, and saw that I could slot the thighs and lower legs together that way.

With the lower leg rotated 45 degrees to the thighs, not only would it would allow me to minimize the width of the slots I would need to cut in the pieces (something that is always a concern with these models), but it would make for a very stable structure.

The very last part I made was the base. I made a round "Huge" base tile, and cut small slots into it, which I could fit the tabs at the bottom of the lower legs. I added a pair of feet onto the base as well. I originally thought of making the feet 3D as well, but the logistics of that were a bit much, and I decided having them be flat would be better, simply from the perspective of having D&D miniatures "walking" around underneath the model.

With the legs and base assembled, I added the walls and the roof, wary the whole time that the model was just going to topple over, but I was pleasantly surprised by how stable it ended up being.

I've had a lot of fun working on these 3D tile pieces and models. I've made a pickup truck. I've made a sailing ship. I've even made The Big Chicken, from Marietta, GA. I have to say, this model was definitely the most challenging to build, but it was also the most fun.

PS: By the way, I should note that the Hut model is not supposed to have a door visible, even though the image from Dragon #83 does have a door there. :)

Note: To build your own model of the Hut, you can download a free pdf with the instructions and image files HERE.

Added note: if you want the chimney to be more sturdy, cut out four pieces of chipboard, one to match the length and height of each wall of the chimney. Then, when you fold the walls back-to-back, do so around the chipboard pieces.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

More Walls

I've been thinking, lately, about coming up with my own patterns for the walls I've been producing. The WotC patterns are nice, but they're WotC's patterns. I doubt I'll get a chance to sell these tiles, but if I want to distribute them in any way, I figure I should probably use my own designs.

I'm no artist, though, so I figured the best place to start is reality.

I figure I'll put in a little bit of effort to turn them into something less photo-realistic, but that can wait.

Also, a few weeks ago, I was running a D&D Encounters session, and the one building on the map that I put down some wall tiles and a roof for was a hexagon-shaped crypt. I hadn't made any of my own wall tiles at that time, so I used the WotC ones. Six of the 2" wall tiles slotted together well enough at the right angles to make the hexagon, but of course the walls came to rest inside the boundaries of the walls on the map, and I only had a square roof to put on top.

With everything else I was doing, I hadn't gotten back to those issues until now. I've been taking measurements for the walls, since they will be somewhat unconventionally sized, but I did put together the roof.

It took a little extra work to angle each section properly, but I'm liking the outcome.

I have a further idea for this, to possibly make it 3D too. There are three ways I'm thinking for this. The first is just to make 6 separate cardstock-on-chipboard pieces that slot together as seen above, with the center being a peak about a 1/2" to 1" above the edges. The second is to make the six chipboard pieces, but have them joined together by one large piece of cardstock, and they can lay flat in kind of a hexagon-pacman shape. The third is to make the six chipboard pieces, and the cardstock would be a dodecahedron (12-sided shape). The six chipboard pieces would be evenly spaced apart, and the cardstock bits in between would fold inward when you pushed the chipboard pieces together to make the peaked roof. Option 2 would probably be the best, I think, but I'll have to see how things progress.

Also, for an upcoming game, there are stone pillars in one room, and I figured I could make 3D versions of those two. These would be very simple; just two 1-1/4" wide by 2" tall pieces that would slot with each other up the middle, and then sit in the pillar square with the points at the corners of the square. I might make a small square tile for the two to slot into, but I'm not sure that's necessary. The two slotted pieces should be stable enough, I think.

Friday, June 24, 2011

Happy Belated Arbor Day!

Holy crap, I just made a tree!! =D

This just started as a half-formed idea to put trees down on an upcoming encounter map.

If you couldn't tell, I'm liking the results. =)

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Walls Progress Report

I tested out the walls at my game last night, but I forgot to take pictures.

Here is the setup, though...

(If you notice in the first picture, I didn't make enough. I counted it out a few times, so I'm not sure how I did that. It could have easily been an organizational thing, though.)

There are still stability issues, mostly due to the tabs and slots not being cut perfectly. If they fit snug together, it works out fine, but there were too many pieces were the tab was slightly too small, or the slot was slightly too big, so there was no "grip" between the pieces.

I can fix that when I coat the tiles, I think, as I intend to spray them down with a sealant, to keep them clean and intact longer. The sealant should add some "bulk" to the tabs and slots, and make the fit better.

Door are also a concern, as I failed to really factor those in to the idea of a complete dungeon. If I'm just surrounding one room with walls, it's not a problem, but as soon as I start adding a hallway beyond the room, that's where the problem starts. That came up three times in this last game. The a hallway joins three rooms, with a 2-square wide door for each room. When I slotted all the walls together, it didn't leave any slots for the doors to fit into. I "solved" the problem with two rooms, just by disconnecting one of the corners from the walls, and attaching it to the door, holding it in place...

That's not a very satisfactory solution, though. I want to come up with something where the doors will fit without that kind of compromise.

One of the players suggested using the little plastic bases you get with certain boardgames games, for holding up cardboard standees or cutouts. That's a pretty good idea. I'll make a tile for that, though, rather than getting the plastic bases. I can easily create a 2x2 floor tile with a slot cut into it, and then have the doors with a tab on the bottom of the tile, and the tab pushes into the slot on the floor tile, and the whole thing stands up (or should *fingers crossed*). Then you just remove the door when the PCs open it, and leave the floor tile in place. I like that. So, thanks for the inspiration, Charles! =)

All that said, stability is still an issue I want to deal with, hopefully without the addition of more pieces to solve the problem. I think I have a good thing going here with this tab&slot system, and I don't want to divert away from that just yet.

Oh, and as an afterthought, these walls will eventually be double-sided. I just didn't get around to doing that just yet. I haven't decided if I will make them stone on one side and wood on the other, or stone on both.

Monday, June 20, 2011

No No... the REAL Walls...

Okay, in my last post I was all like "Ooo, look at me! I'm so awesome! I'm Indiana Jones!"

I was all that!

Oh yeah!

You know it!


Yeaaaaah.... Well, don't expect to see a red line trace my movements across the globe anytime soon. heh.

See, I figured out that I wasn't so damned smart.

If I went with my idea from the last post, I'd have to make three different versions of each length of tile (1", 2", 3", 4", etc) to cover the three possibilities I saw for how the tiles would fit together.

Possibility 1:

Two outer corners.

In this case, the distance between inside edges of the slots is exactly 1", 2", 3", 4", etc, and when the corners are slotted together, this will fit around the positive spaces on the map.

Possibility 2:

Two inner corners

In this case, the slots at both ends are shifted inward by the thickness of a tile, about 1/16", to accommodate the thickness of the tiles that will be slotted in at either end, so that when the corners are slotted together, this will fit inside the negative space on the map.

Possibility 3:

An inner corner and an outer corner.

A hybrid of the two previous cases, where one slot is outside of, and one slot is inside of, the 1", 2", 3", 4", etc, and when the corners are slotted together, it acts as a transition between positive and negative space.

Now, one of the ideas I had in the last post did work. In the latter two cases, I had cut a bit off the bottom of the part that sticks out past the slot, so when the walls were slotted together, those bits would rest on top of the floor tiles. So, that was a successful idea.

However, it's all far too much work!

Three different tiles for each size, just to make sure that you have enough to accommodate all the possibilities, not to mention multiple copies of each tile, so that you have enough tiles to go around the whole map, PLUS needing to cut down the corners of each tile so that if you chance upon a time when those corners will hang into the positive space of the map, the corners will rest on the tiles without pushing the walls up and displacing the whole system. Wow. Oh, and that doesn't even take into account when you're actually using the tiles, you are going to be looking for a 1/16" difference to tell the difference between them, which might get a little frustrating, especially if you happen to be in a hurry. Too much work!

I had to think up something better. Something more standardized, but also adaptable.

So, the other day I was sitting there at my desk, waiting out the passage of a rather Epic fit my work computer was going through, and my mind turned to all of the above issues.

The first idea that came to mind was to just work with corners and half-walls. And by half-walls, I mean by length, not height. So, I would have 1/2", 1", 1-1/2", 2", etc walls, with a slot at one end, and a flat end at the other.

When constructing a dungeon, I would just put down the corners, and line the flat ends up along the edge of the floor tiles. If there was any overlap, that was fine, and any gaps could be filled by other pieces.

That wasn't too bad. It had some potential. The first problem I came up with it, though, was that it wasn't going to be as stable as the previous plan. Four tiles slotted together to form the walls of a room were going to be far more stable than eight corners pushed up against each other. A stray die could knock down a significant portion of the dungeon! So, maybe I could come up with a way to slot the flat ends together, to add some extra stability. A horizontal slot, maybe? Slotting a piece horizontally between the two piece would end up adding shelves in rooms and hallways and such, but that's not so bad. It'd almost be like dungeon dressing. What was so bad about it is that it would necessitate the creation and printing of a bunch of these horizontal slot pieces, and for cutting more thin slots in the tiles. Still too much work.

I was on the right path, though, I thought... so I set my brain a-thinkin' again, and it turned that slot idea on its side... literally. What if some of the flat ends had tabs, and some had slots, like puzzle pieces?

Hey, now I was on to something... but awww, that would still necessitate the creation of two different types of tile for each size... ones with slots and ones with tabs...

But then, even as that negative thought was sweeping across the 3D view of the tabbed/slotted together tiles I had in my head, about to obliterate that view of it from my mind, my brain pivoted one of the two pieces by 90 degrees, to show me that you could make corners out of that tab-and-slot setup.


I had to pause for a moment there. With that simple mental 90 degree turn, I completely eliminated the need to use the WotC-style vertical slots!

I could make just one type of tile for each size I needed. There would be no need for any variation (at least based upon the structure of the design). Nice!

So, upon getting home that night, I grabbed some of the tiles I'd already made, and cut them down to size, with the slots and tabs, and it worked!

As I did further tests, I thought I was going to run into the same problem again, though, since the tab/slot idea would throw an extra 1/16" thickness in at the "tab" end of any piece joining two corners, but it turns out that's not an issue. As a happy coincidence, the way that the D&D tiles are constructed (and thus the maps based upon them), the squares on the tiles are NOT exactly 1" across. If you place a miniature on one of the dungeon squares on the map below, you actually end up with a slight gab between the edge of the base and the start of the next square.

Thus, a 2" long piece, with the 1/16" thick piece slotted in at one end, fits exactly into the 2" negative space.

And at the far end of the room, the slotted together pieces, in this case, a 3" and a 2", fit perfectly along the 5" wall there, and the 1" piece slotted as a corner at the end fits perfectly around the corner of the map!

I don't think that the cavern or wilderness tiles have that same gap, but we can deal with that issue later. heh.

For now, though... yay!